Every time I arrive in Genoa, I can’t help but treat the city as a flavor-filled adventure. Unlike Milan’s cool aloofness, Rome’s passionate embrace, or Florence’s classical elegance, Genoa is a blend of fishing harbors, hillside charm, and medieval character. Its cuisine embodies that spirit—salt-kissed, sun-soaked, historical, and filled with delightful surprises. From the oldest fishermen’s tavern to a sophisticated rooftop restaurant, I have traveled here multiple times, savoring and recording every local flavor.
I want to share the restaurants in Genoa that I truly love—ones I personally visited and tasted, not the generic tourist spots. These gems are scattered across the old harbor, hills, narrow alleys, and seaside. Some are lively, some discreet; all share one thing in common—they left a lasting impression on my taste buds.
1. Trattoria Osvaldo in Boccadasse: Rustic Fishermen’s Dinner by the Sea
Boccadasse is one of Genoa’s most enchanting and photogenic bays, where pastel-toned fishing cottages line a peaceful cove and small fishing boats bob gently in the water. It feels like stepping into a postcard. Tucked into this coastal gem is Trattoria Osvaldo, a seafood restaurant that quickly became one of my most cherished culinary discoveries in Genoa. On my very first trip, it won me over and has remained a personal favorite ever since.
This eatery keeps things simple and authentic—it looks more like a fisherman’s private dining room than a commercial venue. The walls are plain, the tables are wooden, and the focus is clearly on what’s served on the plate. There’s no modern flair or designer furnishings here, but every dish bursts with freshness and flavor, as if the sea had just gifted it moments before.
- Seppie in umido con erbe liguri (stewed cuttlefish with Ligurian herbs): savory, oceanic, full of flavor
- Cozze al pomodoro (mussels in tomato sauce): simple yet genuine, the freshness is palpable
- Handmade seafood pasta: chewy strands coated perfectly in sauce
The ambiance is especially magical at dusk. Sitting by the window, watching the sunlight glint off the waves while the aroma of seafood fills the air, creates a dining experience that feels timeless. Osvaldo doesn’t rely on fancy reservation apps; a direct phone call (contact details can be found on their official website) is the standard approach. During peak travel seasons, especially in summer, I strongly recommend calling at least two days ahead to secure a table—it’s well worth the effort.
2. Sa Pesta in the Old Town: A Homestyle Taste of Genoa
“Farinata” is Genoa’s iconic street food—thin, savory chickpea flour pancakes with a hint of char. It’s something I crave every time I visit. Sa Pesta offers what I believe to be the most authentic and local farinata experience.
This century-old tavern features wooden tables and brick walls that take you back to a 19th-century afternoon.
- Classic Farinata: crisp on the outside, tender inside—part pancake, part custard in texture
- Torta di patate (potato cake): soft and comforting, a traditional Ligurian specialty
- Charcuterie platter: artisan sausages with housemade sourdough bread, a perfect starter
Sa Pesta doesn’t accept online reservations, but you can check real-time availability via TripAdvisor. I recommend avoiding peak meal times to beat the line.
3. C’era una Volta: Artful Dining in a Converted Warehouse
Located in a refurbished warehouse near the port, “C’era una Volta” (meaning “Once upon a time”) evokes a fairytale vibe. The menu combines traditional Ligurian flavors with modern presentation—ideal for friends who love capturing photogenic meals.
- Ravioli di baccalà (codfish ravioli): savory fish, lemon-butter sauce, rich textures and layers
- Herb-braised lamb chops: rustic, home-cooked richness like a kitchen hidden in the hills
- Tagliatelle al pesto: the lightest pesto pasta I’ve had in Genoa, without being overwhelming
You can reserve a table through TheFork or via Google Maps to save waiting time.
4. Terraced Romance at Terrazza Colombo: Dinner Above the City
If, like me, you seek a “memorable dinner” during your travels, Terrazza Colombo is a place you’ll revisit again and again—in stories, photos, and your mind’s eye. Perched on the top floor of the Columbus Tower—one of Genoa’s tallest and most iconic buildings—this restaurant offers breathtaking panoramic views over the entire harbor, stretching from the marina to the ancient rooftops of the old town. It’s not just a dinner spot; it’s a moment you carry with you.
My first dinner there was on a warm June evening. The sun slowly dipped into the Ligurian Sea, casting golden reflections across the water, while the gentle echo of boat horns created a background melody. The air was filled with a salty breeze, and the scene before me felt cinematic. That night, I truly understood what it means to enjoy a meal not just with your palate, but with all your senses.
- Steak with black olive sauce: cooked to perfection, with briny, Ligurian flair
- Seafood platter: highlight—cleanly prepared octopus and sea bass
- Chilled white wine: refreshing with the sea breeze
Online reservations are welcomed via Genoa’s local MiSiedo platform or the popular Italian booking tool Quandoo. Online reservations are highly recommended, especially during spring and summer months. You can book directly through Genoa’s local MiSiedo platform or via Italy’s well-known dining app Quandoo, which often offers updated availability and time slots.
5. Mercato del Carmine: Fresh-from-the-Market Urban Kitchen
This restaurant resides inside a renovated old market in central Genoa. It focuses on the “market-to-table” philosophy: chefs buy the freshest seafood, vegetables, and local herbs every morning.
- Roast sea bream: thick, tender, crispy outside and juicy inside
- Tomato tagliatelle: homemade using fresh-cut tomatoes, sweet and light
- Tiramisu: a common dessert but with silky cheese texture and mild liquor—so good I cleaned my plate
You can reserve via TheFork or Yelp, and view the daily menu ahead of time.
6. Antica Osteria di Vico Palla: A Tavern Hidden in Time
Tucked deep in the old harbor’s backstreets, this tavern has a weathered wooden door and vintage lantern sign. I stumbled in one rainy afternoon. Inside, under dim lights, locals were quietly chatting and sipping wine, as though time itself had slowed.
- Chicken stew with potatoes and mushrooms: meticulously seasoned, with the comforting taste of home
- Tripe sandwich: a unique Ligurian street snack with distinctive flavor
- Ligurian red wine: the staff skillfully pair it with your food—this discovery is a revelation
Many osterie are run by locals. I suggest calling ahead or walking in to check availability—arriving by noon or before 7 PM often increases your chances.
7. Il Genovese: The Ultimate Temple of Pesto
You can find pesto in every restaurant across Genoa, but only Il Genovese moved me to tears.
Known as the “king of pesto” by locals, their sauce is made from fresh basil, extra-virgin olive oil, Pecorino cheese, and pine nuts, all ground by hand. The aroma hits you from the first bite.
- Trofie al pesto: perfectly al dente, chewy texture, intense yet balanced sauce
- Grilled sausage with dried herbs: a standout Ligurian meat specialty
- Sea salt caramel pudding: sweet and salty harmony, a rare dessert that refreshes
Reservation available via TheFork, or call ahead to check seat availability.
8. A Visitor-Free Breakfast at Bar Pasticceria Klainguti
If you prioritize breakfast as a ceremony, don’t miss Klainguti. Opened in 1840, it’s said that Giuseppe Verdi was once a regular.
- Sfoglia Verdi: a sweet pastry with liquor aroma, the same recipe enjoyed by Verdi
- Cappuccino with almond croissant: simple and comforting
- The venue itself—antique wood shelves and glass cabinets—feels like a visual feast
No reservations needed, but arrive early to beat the locals’ queue.
9. Tips for Choosing Restaurants While Traveling
- Avoid tourist traps: the closer to the harbor core and main attractions, the more likely menus cater to tourists, with less authentic taste and lower value. Walk a few more streets beyond to find true gems.
- Use TheFork and TripAdvisor: TheFork helps with bookings and offers discounts; TripAdvisor shows candid local reviews.
- Check opening times: many restaurants close by 2:30 PM and reopen at 7 PM—don’t show up at the wrong hour!
- Book in advance: especially during summer or holidays, popular spots fill up fast.
- Be brave with off-menu items: many chefs will offer daily specials based on market availability—don’t hesitate to try these “off-menu” treasures.
10. A Culinary Journey from Dawn to Moonlight in Genoa
From the first bite of farinata, to dinner on the rooftop terrace, then wine under the moonlit sky—Genoa offers more than just food to fill you; it provides a sense of everyday rhythm, familial warmth, and genuine hospitality. This is a city that must be understood through its cuisine.
Next time you come to Genoa, pick a random trattoria from a backstreet map, or follow my recommendations here. Whichever path you choose, I believe you’ll, like me, find a unique connection between yourself and this city in every bite.
May you feel Genoa’s simplest tenderness through basil pesto, fine wine, and aromatic coffee.
